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CreaSol Permaculture

The mapping guide · Companion to lesson 4

Make the best map you can. That’s the whole instruction.

The map is not the territory. A map is a model, and a rough, honest model you made yourself beats a beautiful one you don’t understand.

The goal isn’t a pretty drawing. It’s to go out, measure, and start to see your land the way it actually behaves. Pick the route that matches what you have. You can mix them.

Pick your route

Route 1

Drone, to scale — my favourite

When you have a drone, or can borrow one. One flight with a mapping app gives you an aerial photo and the elevation together. Then walk it anyway: the ground shows you what the photo cannot.

Route 2

Google Earth — no drone, just a laptop

The best place to start with nothing but a laptop and internet. Great scale, excellent for overlays. Trace your boundary, measure each side with the ruler tool, read the overall fall with the elevation profile. One honest limit: free elevation data is coarse. Great for the big shape of a hillside, poor for anything under a hectare or two. Use it for the boundary and the overall slope, then check the contours on the ground.

Route 3

By hand — how we teach it

A tape measure, a compass and a friend. This is the route where you learn the most about your land, because you walk every metre of it. It also needs no technology at all.

If your land is big, or you need it polished

For a large property, or if you’re going after grants, investment or professional-grade plans, drone flights with LiDAR produce the detailed maps you see on our site. That’s a different level of tool, and for this exercise you don’t need it. Understanding beats polish every time.

Part 1 · Eight steps

Your base map, step by step

Tap any step to open it full size.

  1. Step 1 of 8: tracing a property boundary in Google Earth, corners named A to E

    Trace your outline in Google Earth, or walk it with a compass and tape.

  2. Step 2 of 8: measuring each side of the boundary with a tape

    Real distances along each edge. No tape? Walk a measured 10 m, count your steps, and use that.

  3. Step 3 of 8: choosing a drawing scale that fills the sheet

    Pick the scale that fills your sheet. 1:500 or 1:1000 for a small place; a bigger number for bigger land.

  4. Step 4 of 8: setting up the sheet with a north arrow, a scale bar and a key

    North arrow, scale bar, room for a key. Graph paper is perfect: one square = one metre, or ten.

  5. Step 5 of 8: plotting each measured side at scale so the shape appears

    Lay down each measured side at your scale. The shape appears.

  6. Step 6 of 8: adding buildings, water, big trees, roads and paths

    Buildings, water, big trees, roads and paths. The permanent things first.

  7. Step 7 of 8: inking, labelling and dating the drawing

    Go over it, label it, date it.

  8. Step 8 of 8: the finished base map

    That is the foundation. Everything else lays on top.

Part 2 · Seven overlays

Your sectors, on top

Lay tracing paper or a second copy over the base map, and draw arrows for the energy that arrives from outside your boundary.

  1. Laying tracing paper over the finished base map

    Lay tracing paper, or a second copy, over the base map.

  2. Sector arrows for the prevailing and storm winds

    Wind: the prevailing one, and any storm wind.

  3. Sector arrows for where water enters, collects and leaves in heavy rain

    Water: where it enters in heavy rain, where it collects, where it leaves. This one needs your contours, which is why the map comes first.

  4. Sector arrows for fire, frost and flood

    Fire, frost and flood: where they come from, if they reach you.

  5. Sector arrows for deer, livestock and other animals crossing the land

    Animals: deer, livestock, whatever crosses your land.

  6. Sector arrows for noise, views and neighbours

    Noise, views and neighbours: what to block, what to frame, and the paths people already use.

  7. All the sectors drawn together on one overlay

    All of them together. That overlay decides where half the things on your land should go.

The example slides use one property’s sectors — fire, deer, cold winds, water, noise. Yours will be whatever actually reaches your land.

Part 3 · Seven steps

Contours, where your land has real slope

Contours are lines joining points at the same height. They’re how a flat drawing shows a hillside, and they’re what tells water where to go.

  1. What a contour line is: a line joining points at the same height

    A line joining points at the same height.

  2. Contours close together mean steep ground; far apart means gentle

    Close together means steep. Far apart means gentle.

  3. Ridges smile and valleys wear hats: how contour lines bend over ridges and valleys

    The one rule worth memorising. Learn it and you can read any contour map in the world.

  4. Collecting spot heights by levelling a tight string and measuring string to ground

    Pull a string tight and level, and measure string-to-ground. Slope % = rise ÷ run × 100.

  5. Sketching the skeleton: ridgelines and valley lines first

    The ridgelines and the valley lines first.

  6. Joining points of equal height with an A-frame or a water-filled hose

    Walk across the slope with an A-frame or a clear water-filled hose, staking each point at the same height. A line every 2 to 3 m of drop is plenty for a first map.

  7. The inked contour map, ready to read

    Ink it, and read the land.

No real slope? Note “roughly flat” and move on. Contours matter most where water and gravity will do real work.

Workarounds, for whatever you’re missing

No tape measure
count paces off a measured 10 m.
No compass
the one on your phone is good enough for this.
A-frame blocked by rocks or brush
use the hose; it goes around obstacles.
Land too big to walk in a weekend
boundary from Google Earth, hand-mark contours only where you will build first: the house, the water, the first planting.
Can’t draw
graph paper and a ruler. One square = one unit. That is all a scale drawing is.

That’s a complete map: boundary to scale, what’s already there, sectors on top, contours where they matter. It’s rough, it’s yours, and it’s enough to design from.

Take a phone photo of it and send it in. That’s a complete entry.

Send in your map